By the SightShield team · · 3 min read
Timing is everything
The cheapest and neatest time to install a central vacuum is while the house is being built — after the structure and before plastering, flooring and false ceilings. Pipes go into walls, slabs or ceiling spaces alongside electrical conduits, and inlets are fitted later with the switches and sockets. Bring the installer in when the electrical layout is being finalised.
How many inlets
With a standard 30 ft (about 9 m) hose, a common rule of thumb is one inlet for every 600–800 sq ft (roughly 55–75 m²) of floor area, and at least one per floor. Guides vary, so the reliable method is to check reach on the floor plan: from each inlet, the hose should reach every corner of the rooms it serves, including inside cupboards and around furniture.
Example: a G+2 villa
This is an example; room layout, door positions and furniture decide the final inlet positions. Check that the hose reaches every corner from at least one inlet.
| Floor | Typical inlets |
|---|---|
| Ground (living, dining, kitchen, guest room) | 2–3, plus a kitchen sweep inlet |
| First (bedrooms) | 2 |
| Second (bedrooms or family room) | 1–2 |
| Terrace or utility | 1 |
| Car porch or garage | 1 for car cleaning |
Where to put inlets
- In corridors and passages, so one inlet serves several rooms.
- Near doorways rather than behind furniture or doors.
- At the top or bottom of stairs, so the stairs can be cleaned from one point.
- Near the car porch or garage for vehicle cleaning.
- A sweep (kick-plate) inlet at skirting level in the kitchen for crumbs and floor sweepings.
- At normal socket height, so the hose plugs in easily.
The power unit
- Utility area, garage, service duct or basement — somewhere with ventilation and space to empty the canister.
- Close to a dedicated power point; the installer will specify the rating.
- Located so the exhaust can be vented outdoors with a short run.
- Away from bedrooms, as the motor is noisy at the unit.
Pipes and fittings
- Use the system’s own pipe and long-radius sweep fittings; sharp elbows clog and reduce suction.
- Keep pipe runs as short and straight as possible.
- Test every joint for leaks before walls are closed — leaks are hard to find later.
- Run low-voltage wires with the pipe so plugging in the hose starts the motor.
- Mark pipe routes on the as-built drawings so nobody drills into them later.
Coordination on site
- Share the inlet plan with the architect and electrician before slab casting.
- Pipe sleeves through slabs and beams must be placed before concreting.
- Inlet boxes are fixed at the same stage as electrical boxes.
- Cap all open pipe ends during construction to keep debris out.
- Fit inlet valves and the power unit after painting.
Common mistakes
- Too few inlets to save cost, so the hose does not reach parts of rooms.
- Inlets hidden behind beds and sofas after furniture arrives.
- Forgetting the terrace, staircase or garage.
- Power unit undersized for the length of pipe and number of inlets.
- No plan for the exhaust, leading to dust indoors.
Quick answers
At what stage should a central vacuum be installed?+
Pipes go in after the structure is up and before plastering, flooring and false ceilings; inlets and the power unit are fitted during finishing.
How many inlets does a 3,000 sq ft house need?+
Typically four or five with a 30 ft hose, at least one per floor, confirmed by checking hose reach on the floor plan.
Can pipes run through the floor slab?+
Yes, if planned before the slab is cast. Many installations use walls, ceilings or false ceilings instead.
Can the pipes be laid after the slab is cast?+
Yes, through walls, false ceilings and service shafts, but planning before the slab gives the most direct and hidden routes.
Who installs the pipes — the plumber or the vacuum installer?+
Ideally the central vacuum installer or a plumber working to their drawings, using the system’s own fittings.